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Museumification

Our society is filled with contradictions. On the one hand, connected modernity. On the other hand, our desire to switch off and slow down. On the one hand, the Fooding trend, for its experimental dimension. On the other hand, the good old pub serving shepherd’s pie and mac ’and cheese – so comforting. Well, they’re back! The old restaurants in their modern version are meant to fulfill our desire for “realness” and search for authenticity.

One proof is the recent purchase of La Poule au Pot, an institution in the Parisian neighbourhood of Les Halles, by the Michelin star chef Jean François Piège. Another proof is the booming success of Bouillon Pigalle, a walk-in venue, with long communal tables, inspired by traditional « brasseries », where the vibrant atmosphere and the scenery were as important as the food itself. Another sign is the word “bistrot”, used like a label for warmth and friendliness. These black-apron garçons in after-war decors that gave Claude Sautet movies their typical French charm have now become “inspiring”… Why not?

Everybody knows about these historic restaurants that made the French capital famous. But only few eat there because they seem mostly targeted to tourists, like the Eiffel Tower or the Château of Versailles. Some will regret the vanishing spirit of culinary innovation, after years of crazy experimentation (what happened to molecular cuisine?). Some will say it confirms the French capital’s museumification (but how to prevent it?), or follows an overdose of so-called “bistronomic” restaurants, as soon as tablecloths are away, natural wine is offered and waiters are tattooed.

But the most interesting part of this trend, is that these neo-brasseries attract young urban customers, the ones we usually consider modernity lovers and driven by a desire for newness…

So What ?

The weekly note leaves Paris to tourists and dreamers for the summer and will be back on September 5 !

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